FAQ 

This information was issued by our supplier and we are bound by their T&Cs

Are the alternative products you offer compatible with my existing setup?
In order to confirm this for you, you need to reach your technical support advisor to provide information on your current system set-up to better advice.
Do keep in mind, we offer the Solis and Sunsynk inverter range as alternatives that are compatible with Kodak batteries.
The Kodak inverters are also compatible with most of our existing batteries, i.e., Pylontech, Freedom won, Revov, Hubble Lithium.

Will I need to replace my entire system if I switch to a different brand?
No, Kodak inverters and batteries have cross compatibility with a lot of batteries and inverters in the market.

Can I mix the discontinued brand’s batteries with a new inverter?
Kodak batteries are compatible with a lot of industry leading inverters i.e. Solis and Sunsynk inverters.

Will there be any buy-back or trade-in options for existing stock? 
Yes, we will be implementing a buyback process for batteries with refund value calculated from battery age since the start of the warranty period 

What should I do if I have a faulty Kodak in future? 
You will have to contact one of our technical support advisors to assist you book the faulty unit to any of our service centers. We will continue testing and repairing faulty units under the warranty period. 

Will there be any remaining stock available after the discontinuation date for returns/warranty claims?
Yes, we will be procuring all service-related parts to ensure repairs are done timeously with a buffer stock for warranty replacements in unrepairable conditions. 

Will I be in trouble if I keep the non NRS certified Kodak installed? 
The regulation enforcement highlights the need for homeowners to register their systems before March 2026 to avoid fines and ensure compliance. Being tied to the grid and not registering will result in penalties. For an outlined process by Eskom click here 

Will this affect my warranty on my current Kodak system?  
No, the standard warranty period is still applicable. 

Can I still purchase Kodak spare parts for maintenance and repairs after the discontinuation date? 
Yes, spare parts will be available as we will still be servicing Kodak units post discontinuation period to ensure we honor the warranty. 

Will firmware updates and software support still be provided? 
Yes, we have a dedicated team of technical support advisors who can share the latest firmware updates upon request. 

Will you still stock spare parts for future repairs? 
Yes, we will continuously stock spare parts across our service centers to ensure repairs are completed timeously. If you have any questions or require support during this transition, please don’t hesitate to reach out.  

The post Important update – Transition from KODAK to NRS-Compliant Solutions in South Africa. appeared first on DIY Geek.

The KODAK Solar Products OG inverters are designed specifically for your off-grid PV system needs and are not intended to be connected to the grid. Thus, these units do not comply with the NRS 097 standards, which the City of Cape Town and other energy distribution companies require for grid-connected inverters.

OG inverters are not only perfect for installations where no grid is present, but they also suit locations where it is too costly to install a grid cable, such as agricultural spaces in the bushveld and lodges or camps.

Advantages of the KODAK Solar Products OG models include:
• Battery management system communications for optimal management and control.
• Built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, enabling wireless remote monitoring.
• A power range of up to 60kW in single or three-phase configurations.
• Compatibility with a wide range of batteries.
• Generator compatibility, which you can learn more about in the KODAK Solar Products application note.
• Zero-millisecond changeover times for a true uninterruptible supply (OG-Plus inverters).

There are various models for you to choose from in the KODAK Solar Products OG range, with inverters ranging from 3kW up to 10kW that can further be expanded up to 60kW – ensuring you can choose the best possible solution for an array of project requirements.

So, use the KODAK Solar Products application guide to find the right OG inverter for your next off-grid installation today!

The post Can you connect the KODAK Solar Products inverters to the grid? appeared first on DIY Geek.

Home security has always been of utmost importance to homeowners. The development of wireless technology has brought many advancements to home security systems. However, when it comes to choosing between wired and wireless alarm systems, the former is the better option. Read this short article to learn about the benefits of wired alarm systems and how to make them smart with Konnected.

1. Reliability

Wired alarm systems are more reliable than wireless systems. 

The wired sensors are directly connected to the control panel with wires; therefore, there’s no chance of interference or loss of signal. In contrast, various factors such as distance, signal interference, or low battery levels can affect wireless alarm systems. Wired systems are less prone to these issues and provide a stable and consistent connection. 

2. Security

Wired alarm systems are more secure than wireless systems. 

Wired systems are less vulnerable to hacking and jamming because they do not use radio frequencies to transmit data. Hackers can easily intercept the wireless signal, and with the right equipment, they can easily disarm or disable a wireless alarm system. Wired systems are not prone to these types of attacks. 

3. Maintenance

Wired alarm systems require less maintenance than wireless systems.

As wired sensors do not use batteries, they do not require periodic replacement. They’ll always work, as long as they are properly wired into an alarm panel.  Wireless systems, on the other hand, require regular battery replacement to ensure proper functioning. 

4. Integration

Wired alarm systems can be integrated with other systems easily.  

Thanks to Konnected Alarm Panels, wired alarm systems can be controlled by home automation platforms like SmartThings, Home Assistant, Alexa, and more, allowing homeowners to control their alarm system remotely. Instead of ditching the traditional wired sensors, you can now bring them to the 21st century.

5. Cost

Wired alarm systems are generally more cost-effective than wireless systems. 

Millions of homes worldwide already have the wired alarm system. With Konnected, you reuse what you already own instead of replacing the pre-existing system. If you wish to buy more wired sensors (like motion or contact sensors), they’re much cheaper than wireless ones. Wired systems & sensors also don’t require maintenance, making their lifespan longer and reducing costs.

The post Why Are Wired Alarm Systems Better Than Wireless Alarm Systems? appeared first on DIY Geek.

1. When commissioning your system and there are multiple batteries, make sure they are connected and talking to each other.

2. Connect batteries to the inverter.

3. Switch on isolators (between batteries and inverter).

4. Power on the batteries.

5. Make sure the batteries are talking to the inverter (Check LCD display).

6. Ensure the BMS cables are the right way round.

7. Re-check that communications between the BMS and Inverter are good.

8. If there is a problem with communications, stop what you are doing and check connections.

9. If all good, wait for all normal lights to activate and light up on the inverter.

10. At this stage the batteries are talking to each other.

11. DO NOT SWITCH ON THE AC POWER SUPPLY AT THIS STAGE.

12. Switch on the Solar array by switching on the isolator (between array and inverter).

13. The solar power (DC) will now charge the batteries (BMS).

14. The system will currently be operating in ‘island-mode’ and there will not send power back on the grid connection.

15. Check all circuits and make sure everything is talking to each other.

16. Switch on the AC and wait 60 seconds before the Inverter indicates the connection.

17. Check the CT Coil is working. The display on the monitor screen will show the CT Coil setting and the LOAD.

18. Double – check settings.

19. Commission the Data Logger one data logger per inverter. Keith and the Sunsynk team will be visiting the Netherlands in the next few days to look at a brilliant single-phase system which we feel demonstrates ‘the house of the future’. See you then!

The post Tips on commissioning a Sunsynk Inverter appeared first on DIY Geek.

Even in-low light or darkness, these cameras have sharp night vision capabilities for clear-as-day images. The Cloud is a global video cloud service platform that can be linked to your smart devices so you can enjoy value-added services. With bank-level encryption, your data stays secure on the Cloud

The post EZViz voice customization appeared first on DIY Geek.

The post Compatibility List of Pylontech ESS and Inverters appeared first on DIY Geek.

GreenCast 160, Surf Clear EVO, GreenPoxy 33

GreenCast 160 – Bio-based, water clear, UV stable epoxy for thick castings

River tables, clear epoxy sculptures and encapsulations, wood and resin combinations such as furniture, chopping/serving boards and large pen blanks.

Surf Clear EVO – Bio-based, water clear, UV stable epoxy for thin castings and coatings

Tabletops and bar counters including with embedded items such as bottle tops and coins. High gloss finishing cast onto thick cast epoxy. Resin jewellery, pen blanks, knife scales, 3D layered resin art, water effects for architectural models.

GreenPoxy 33 – Bio-based, epoxy for thick castings (slow hardener) and coatings (fast hardener)

River tables, pigmented epoxy sculptures, wood and resin combinations such as furniture, chopping/serving boards and large pen blanks.

Introduction

Aerontec has a number of bio-based epoxy systems that are suitable for casting and artistic work. This guide will get you started in the exciting world of epoxy casting, noting that our technical advice is given in good faith but without warranty. All products are sold upon condition that purchasers will make their own tests to determine the quality and suitability of the product for their particular application and circumstances.

Have fun with these products but remember that in the liquid state, the resin and hardener should be considered toxic and handled with caution, such as using gloves and eye protection and working in a ventilated area. Once the resin and hardener have been correctly mixed and fully cured, the result is a stable and inert plastic that is not toxic. It is suitable for incidental food contact purposes (short term) such as cutting boards but these epoxies do not have FDA or Food Safe certifications which may be required for commercial applications.

GreenCast 160 / SD7160

Bio-based, clear, UV stable epoxy for thick castings using the SD7160 mega slow hardener. The resin has a light blue appearance. This system is easily pigmented with Aerontec’s range of epoxy pigments for translucent, opaque and luminous effects. This product has been designed as a casting resin, not a coating resin. The open surface typically needs to be flatted and polished to achieve a perfectly flat, glossy finish. The open surface can also be coated with Surf Clear Evo to produce a high gloss, flat finish.

UV Stability – This product will resist yellowing and is water resistant, however, it does not provide 100% UV protection and is not suitable for permanent, outdoor exposure. UV protection can be improved by overcoating with protective urethane paint such as Sicomin TopClear or UV resistant wax polish.

Curing Time – Depends on the ambient temperature but around 48hrs to touch-dry, but longer in thin castings. Allow at least 72hrs before demoulding or attempting to do any finishing work on the resin. The epoxy will take about 30 days to reach full hardness although this can be accelerated with a post cure of 24hr @ 40 to 60°C.

Kit – Each kit contains a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener which are mixed together at 100:42 parts by weight or 2- parts resin to 1-part hardener by volume.

Coverage: 885 millilitres per 1 kg with 1 litre covering 1 square meter to 1mm of thickness

Surf Clear Evo

Bio-based, clear, UV stable epoxy for thin castings, surface coatings and laminating. The resin has a light purple appearance. This system is easily pigmented with Aerontec’s range of epoxy pigments for translucent, opaque and luminous effects. Evo has been designed as a coating resin or thin casting resin. It cures to a high gloss, level surface. It is not suitable for thick casting as it will exotherm.

UV Stability – This product will resist yellowing and is water resistant, however, it does not provide 100% UV protection and is not suitable for permanent, outdoor exposure. UV protection can be improved by overcoating with protective urethane paint such as Sicomin TopClear or UV resistant wax polish.

Curing Time – Depends on the ambient temperature but around 2hrs to gel. Allow at least 24hrs before demoulding or attempting to do any finishing work on the resin. The epoxy will take about 30 days to reach full hardness although this can be accelerated with a post cure of 16 h @ 60 °.

Kit – Each kit contains a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener which are mixed together at 100:41 parts by weight or 2-parts resin to 1-part hardener by volume.

Coverage: 909 millilitres per 1 kg with 1 litre covering 1 square meter to 1mm of thickness

GreenPoxy 33 / SD477x

Bio-based general-purpose laminating and casting epoxy. The slow casting 4771 and 770 hardeners are clear while the fast 4775 and 4777 hardeners are yellow-brown. Typically used for sealing wood with the fast hardener and medium to thick castings with the slow hardeners.

UV Stability – This epoxy is not UV stable and must be pigmented to conceal UV yellowing.

Curing time – The various hardeners can be blended to change gel times. SD4771 hardener is touch dry in 11 hours (30°C) and SD4770 in 15 hours (30°C).

Kit – Each kit contains a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener which are mixed together at 100:27 part by weight or various ratios by volume as per the data sheet.

Coverage: 909 millilitres per 1 kg with 1 litre covering 1 square meter to 1mm of thickness

Before you get started

You will need various ancillary items to make a success out of your epoxy project. It is recommended you have the following at hand before you open the epoxy containers.

• Work Space – A dust free, ventilated room where you can mix, splash and spill sticky epoxy without care. For large pours that can get hot it can help to have air-conditioning or fans blowing air over the table to keep the resin temperature down.
• Digital scale – nothing fancy, but able to measure 1-gram increments. Protect it with plastic if you’ve stolen if from the kitchen!
• Nitrile or latex gloves – Epoxy is very sticky and the hardener component is corrosive to skin. Aerontec Tuff Gloves are thick, black nitrile gloves perfect for protecting your hands while having fun!
• Eye protection – Epoxy hardener is corrosive so protect your eyes when mixing and pouring epoxy.
• Dust mask – Wear a dust mask when sanding or machining epoxy. Don’t inhale epoxy dust.
• Graduated Mixing Cups – Accurate measurement is extremely important to achieve the optimum cured properties. Even if you are using a scale, you’ll need plastic or coated paper mixing cups.
• Clean Mix Sticks – Bamboo mixing sticks or wooden tongue depressors. Dirty sticks can cause contamination of the epoxy.
• Plastic Squeegees – Great for spreading epoxy, they will not leave air bubbles behind as brushes can.
• Brushes – Mostly for sealing wood before casting. Use a decent brush that won’t lose bristles in your artwork.
• Flash tape – Very strong tape with pressure sensitive adhesive. Aerontec supply 12.5, 25 and 50mm width.
• Solvent – Acetone for spill clean-up and cleaning surfaces before re-casting.
• Propane Torch, Heat Gun or Hair Drier – Used by sweeping the heat or flame across the surface of the uncured
• epoxy to pop air bubbles.

Beginners Tips

To avoid most of the common problems you should always do a trial run with the product to ensure you have a proper understanding of how to use the epoxy. The following guide covers casting with epoxy and is generally applicable to both casting and coating systems.

Epoxy quantity – To determine the quantity of epoxy you require, calculate the volume that you need to fill. If the cavity is an odd shape, filling it with rice and then pouring the rice into a measuring cup can work.

Otherwise estimate the volume by multiplying:

length (meters) X width (meters) x height (millimetres) = volume litres x 1.2 (specific gravity) = kg of mixed epoxy

Temperature – For best results the product should be used in conditions between 18° C to 25° C. Cooler resin will be thicker (more viscous) and more prone to air entrapment. Warmer conditions increase the risk that the epoxy could exotherm (overheat) during the cure which can cause it to crack, distort and discolour.

Work Space – The room you are working in should be clean, dry, dust and insect-free. Settling dust can often cause imperfections on the surface of the epoxy as it is curing. Make sure your project surface is level. If not level, the epoxy will pool at the lowest point. Epoxy often ends up on the floor, so take precautions.

Wooden Surfaces – For applications incorporating wood, the wood surface should be planed or sanded first and then cleaned until dust-free. It is also important that any prior stains or finishes be completely dry before beginning. Any types of moisture, oils, greases or uncured finishes can potentially cause fish-eyes or product curing problems. Oily hardwoods such as olive and teak require thorough washing in acetone to prevent fisheyes in coatings. Make sure the wood is clamped down, as it may float in the epoxy!

Measuring epoxy – Always make sure that your mixing container is clean and your measuring device is accurate. ACCURATELY follow the weight or volume mix ratio, using either a gram scale or graduated measuring cylinder. If you get the mix ratio wrong by a small amount the resin will cure but the mechanical properties will be decreased. However, if you were out by anything more than a few grams the resin would not be properly hard when cured and may have a tacky finish.

Mixing epoxy – Thorough mixing is the most important part of this procedure. Even if you have experience with other types of resins, it is very easy to underestimate the amount of mixing this product requires.

Depending on the quantity being mixed, it can take anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes of continuous mixing. During mixing the epoxy will turn cloudy and you must continue to mix until all signs of haziness and white streaks in the mixture have become transparent. To reduce air entrapment, mix slowly and purposefully without whipping air into the resin. Always scrape the sides of the mixing container and stick during the mixing process. As the epoxy at the bottom or sides of the container may not be mixed correctly, pour the mixed epoxy into a new container, that you will use to pour into the mould. This is termed double bucket mixing.

Pouring – Pour slowly, and preferably in the same place allowing the resin to find its own level. You can pour the resin through a flour sieve to break the surface tension to reduce bubbles. If any unmixed material remains on the side of the container and falls onto your surface while pouring it will leave an uncured sticky spot. While pouring the epoxy onto the surface, NEVER scrape or brush the sides or bottom of the container you just mixed in to remove every last drop. No matter how thoroughly you may have mixed, there will always be an unmixed portion which can be dislodged and will leave a wet or sticky spot.

Exotherm – Never leave mixed epoxy in your bucket unattended. The longer the epoxy sits in your bucket, it will increase the chances that the epoxy will exotherm and generate excess heat, begin to smoke and then cure quickly inside the bucket.

Mould materials and Release agents
A mould of some form is required when casting epoxy. The mould is a liquid tight form that prevents the epoxy from ending up on your floor! Note that when casting onto a wooden surface that the liquid epoxy can easily seep through the top surface to the bottom surface and thence onto the floor unless contained by plastic sheeting or a solid base. Moulds made from silicone rubber, polyethylene and polypropylene plastics do not need release agents although for multiple castings in silicone a suitable release agent will prolong the life of the mould.

For large castings such as river tables, melamine or polypropylene plastic sheet is typically used to make a box. The edges have to be waterproof using model putty, hot glue, adhesive, flash tape or similar materials.

Melamine must be coated with an appropriate release agent to prevent the extremely adhesive epoxy from bonding to it. Paste or aerosol wax, such as Mikon Mirror Wax or F-57 aerosol wax can be used while brown packing tape, normally made from polypropylene, makes an excellent low-cost release material.

Sealing porous wood surfaces
Before casting epoxy over porous surfaces such as wood, the surface should be sealed with epoxy to eliminate the risk of air bubbles coming out of the wood while the casting resin cures. The sealing coat is brushed onto the surface and fast gelling epoxy such as Surf Clear Evo or GreenPoxy 33 with fast hardener are ideal.

GreenCast 160 an also be used but it will take at least 48hrs before it has gelled sufficiently to seal the surface. Usually only one seal coat is required, however extremely porous wood or knots in the wood may need multiple coats in order to fully seal the surface. Ideally, warm the wood before applying the seal coat. This will expand the wood pores and release air and oils. Then wipe with acetone and paint the warm wood with epoxy. When the wood contracts, it soaks the epoxy into the pores, which leads to a better bond.

Pigmenting the epoxy
There are a wide range of epoxy pigments, typically sold in 50-gram containers. These can be used to produce translucent, opaque and luminous effects. The pigments are generally very powerful and only a small quantity is required to achieve great results. Thicker castings require a lower percentage of pigment because the colour appears stronger the thickness. Similarly, thin castings require a higher percentage of pigment. Note that in extremely slow casting systems such as GreenCast 160 pigment colours will disperse and combine during the very long liquid stage of cure. You can experiment with the amount of pigment you desire but ideally do not exceed 5% parts by weight of the mixed resin and hardener with liquid and paste pigments. Powder pigments can often be used at up to 300+% loading.

Filling with luminous powder
The epoxy resin can be filled with luminous powder. Any quantity of powder up to a maximum of 300% by weight can be cast. Note that the luminous powder has the consistency of sand and will settle out of the epoxy. It should therefore be cast in thin layers close to the surface of the part, where it will be exposed to light.

Casting
When casting onto wood, the insulating effect (particularly if you also have a wooden mould as well) can prevent the resin from cooling as it cures, increasing the resin temperature and possibly leading to exotherm. This is particularly important when working in high ambient temperatures. Often some sort of forced cooling is required such as metal moulds with fans used for cooling or even air conditioning the casting area. You need to assess the risk of exotherm based on your experience with the product in your environment and that will dictate the maximum casting thickness. If a single casting is not feasible, split the pour into multiple layers. The following layer can normally be cast as soon as the first layer has gelled to a sticky solid and the epoxy temperature in the casting has returned to ambient.

Coating
When coating a surface, such as a counter top, the flood coat should be poured onto the surface and allowed to flow and self-level. You can use flash tape around the edges to dam the epoxy. Use a plastic squeegee to help spread the epoxy. Generally, one to three flood coats are applied for most table and bar coatings. Deep pour resins such as GreenCast 160 can reduce this to a single pour but take a long time to cure in thin sections. You will need approximately 2kg mixed epoxy per square meter to ensure there is enough resin to self-level. The best way to apply the flood coat on tables, is to pour the epoxy in the middle and allow the epoxy to flow out. For counters, start on one end and pour the epoxy the entire length. Use a plastic squeegee or foam brush to help guide the material around.

Popping bubbles
Mixing the epoxy resin and hardener will introduce bubbles into the liquid. In commercial environments the mixed resin is normally vacuum degassed to ‘boil’ out the bubbles. This requires a vacuum pot and a vacuum pump. Pouring the resin will also entrap and introduce air bubbles. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. By holding the heat source approximately 300mm away from the surface and quickly sweeping across the surface you will immediately see the bubbles start to pop. Don’t let the flame linger on the surface! Other tools that can be used to pop the bubbles are a heat gun or a hair drier. However, both of these tools move air around which increases the risk of dust settling in the coating. It is a good idea to continue popping bubbles every 30 minutes until the epoxy has gelled.

Re-Coating
Re- coating is often necessary when multi lay casting, repairing or using a faster epoxy such as Evo for a final high gloss finish. When re-coating onto a gelled but tacky epoxy layer, no surface preparation is needed. The layers will bond together as one. If you allow the previous layer to fully cure (i.e. hard surface with no tack), very light sanding with 120 grit sand paper is necessary to key the surface and promote adhesion. After sanding, you should wipe down the surface with a solvent such as acetone or denatured alcohol (not paint thinners, mineral spirits, benzine). The wipe down process with the solvent should be done with a clean rag that will not leave any lint on the surface. Our Aerowipe lint-free cotton cloths are perfect for this application. Continue cleaning until all sanding dust has been completely removed. You are now ready to re-coat. The next pour will fill in the sanding scratches and make them disappear.

Curing
After applying your final coat, the product should be kept in a clean and dust-free environment until cured. The time to cure touch dry varies with the epoxy type and the ambient temperature. For every 10° C rise in ambient temperature the cure time will halve (and vice versa, double the time if cooled). At temperatures below 18° C the product will take a very long time to cure. Once touch dry the epoxy is not yet fully cross linked and has not achieved its full mechanical properties, which typically takes up to 30 days unless post cured. The first couple weeks after curing the surface is therefore more prone to scratching, but as the product ages its hardness will increase.

Amine blush
In cool ambient temperatures and high humidity, the epoxy surface may develop an amine blush, leaving a waxy, oily, tacky surface. This will interfere with adhesion if overcoated. If amine blush is detected it should be removed by thoroughly washing the surface with warm water and detergent. Solvents will not remove amine blush.

Finishing to high gloss
The cast epoxy surface may end up with an orange peel effect if the final cast has taken a long time to cure (e.g. if a very thin layer of slow epoxy was cast), while a thick layer that gets hot will also produce a lumpy surface as the hot epoxy circulates toward the surface. In most cases, sanding and polishing work will be required to finish the cast surface to a high gloss. There are many approaches that can work compared to the options covered below and results will vary with the degree of experience and equipment used.  Remember, the cast surface is a plastic that will melt at low temperatures if excessive friction heat builds up.

Wear a dust mask and protective clothing when sanding epoxy! Epoxy dust is hazardous and should not be inhaled or allowed to settle on the skin.

The first method to achieve the final flat, gloss surface, is to sand the surface relatively flat and then cast a thin layer of Surf Clear Evo. Sand the surface flat with 100 sandpaper until no shiny dimples are visible anymore.

Round the edges where required and use flash tape around the edges as a dam if necessary. Apply Surf Clear Evo (2kg/m2 is required for a self-levelling coat) using a spatula and a roller on the edges. Cover the wet epoxy surface with a plastic tent to prevent dust contamination. If no dust is visible, wash with soap and polish with high quality plastic polishing compound. Otherwise remove blemishes with 1000 or 1500 water paper and then polish.

The second method involves cutting back the epoxy and wood to a perfectly flat surface. This contrasts the natural wood with the glossy epoxy but requires sanding or machining of the whole surface and then polishing the resin to high gloss. This is the normal approach for commercial river tables and similar products.

If the surface is very uneven, route the surface, removing less than 1mm per pass to prevent ripping into the surface. A drum sander can also be used to level the surface. Ensure there is no amine blush on the surface (wash with warm soapy water then dry thoroughly), to ensure the sand paper does not clog. Use 120-200 grit paper, removing 0.5-1.0mm maximum per pass.

An orbital sander can be used to flatten the surface. Begin with 100 grit until no shiny dimples are visible. Progress with water paper 220, 360, 600, 1000 and 1500 water paper. No scratches from the previous paper must stay behind. Use high quality plastic polishing compound and follow the recommend directions to achieve a high gloss finish. Swirl remover and hand glaze are typically used after polishing paste.

Health and Safety
As with any chemical, poor handling or misuse of epoxy could be potentially hazardous to health, therefore it is essential that the appropriate safety procedures are observed for the safe handling and use of these products. In general, the epoxy component of a solvent-free system is a skin irritant, while the hardener is a corrosive liquid.

• Avoid skin contact by wearing appropriate clothing and latex or nitrile gloves.
• Safety glasses are required to prevent resin or corrosive hardener splashing into the eye.
• Wear a dust mask to prevent inhaling epoxy dust when working with cured epoxy, such as sanding or cutting.

Disclaimer
All statements, technical information and recommendations, including storage, contained in this publication are based on tests believed to be reliable, but their accuracy and/or completeness are not guaranteed. Our technical advice, whether verbal or in writing, is given in good faith but Aerontec gives no warranty; express or implied and all products are sold upon condition that purchasers will make their own tests to determine the quality and suitability of the product for their particular application and circumstances. Any information or suggestions are without warranty of any kind and purchasers are solely responsible for any loss arising from the use of such information or suggestions. Before using any of our products, users should familiarise themselves with the relevant technical and safety datasheets. The information contained herein is under constant review and liable to be modified from time to time.

The post Guide to casting solvent free epoxy systems appeared first on DIY Geek.

For our international readers please note that what is written here is globally common so although I may make reference to South Africa the actual content holds true for all wind turbines regardless of your location. Also, the wind turbines I am referring to here are domestic/light commercial class wind turbines, so that’s pretty much everything from 300watts to 10kW either horizontal or vertical axis (I will explain the difference).

I come from a true renewable background. By this I mean that I am experienced in numerous technologies associated with renewable energy. Now this may sound like a casual statement but there are actually not many of us here in South Africa mainly because few people were stupid enough to try and sell renewable energy products before it was financially viable. I always say to clients that you can tell the age of a renewable energy company by their product grouping. Companies that primarily sell solar (PV) systems are generally start-ups without long experience (relatively) in renewable. The reason I know this is because true renewable companies started in a time that the cost of a solar panel per watt was around R63 ($5.25) and the only people that ever bought them were extreme tree huggers and high sites that simply had no other choice. This meant in order for us to stay alive as a company we had to sell technologies that had some semi semblance of financial practicality. Enter micro hydro turbines, wind turbines and to a lesser extent gas turbines, but so as not to digress I will stick with wind turbines in this article and cover micro hydro turbines in another article.

Selling wind turbines is a hazardous business primarily because people don’t understand them or rather have false expectations of them. I will address these first so as to inject the basics.

Type of Wind Turbines and Why?

The most commonly sold wind turbine in the world is horizontal axis, the reason for this is that they are simply more effective as they front up with the wind and produce power with greater efficiency per swept area. In the picture below you can see a horizontal axis turbine, the horizontal part is that the head and internal generator are horizontal to the ground. Swept area is the total reach of the blades from tip to tip.

Horizontal Axis Wind Turbine

The problem with horizontal axis turbines is that they require clean wind in order to operate at their greatest output and since they are installed low on the ground, typically 6 – 12m,  the air can get extremely turbulent do to any multitude of obstacles obstructing its free movement. Turbulence can cause the turbine to lose its track out of the wind and reduce power as it does so. This can be seen by the wind turbine being unable to stay on a single line against the wind and instead keeps turning away.

Manufacturers of wind turbines are well aware of this problem and have come up with various methods to reduce the effects of turbulence or dirty wind on the turbine. Common mechanical methods are long angled tail turbines (very common) and computer vane-controlled turbines (mainly in large units) but another way to completely overcome the problem is by using vertical axis turbines.

Vertical Axis Wind Turbine

These turbines have a dramatically reduced impact by turbulence since they spin on a vertical plane (angled up from the ground) and thus can convert both turbulence and multi-directional winds into useful wind for generation. This may seem like a logical step, but vertical axis turbines pay a price of lower rotational speed since they are not fully fronting up with the wind. In addition to this the swept area of the turbine needs to be significantly greater because there is less direct energy being transferred to the heads internal generator. Finally, since demand for vertical axis turbines is lower the cost of buying in a unit is that much higher.

Why do I provide you with all this information? Because clean wind is key to good generation for almost any type of wind turbine. That means as few surrounding obstacles (trees, buildings, towers, mountains etc) as is possible, and if obstacles are unavoidable then as far or high from them as you can possibly can. Don’t go thinking you can install a turbine in your backyard that has a tree line between the turbine and the predominant wind, you just asking for frustration.

Wind speed and Frequency

Wind turbines are normally rated (watts or kilowatts) at wind speeds of 9m (29.52 feet) per second which amounts to 32.4 kmh (20.13mph). As an example, a 1kW wind turbine is rated as 1kW in 9m/s wind speed. This is no joke for two reasons. First, a wind turbine rated at 1000watts requires a persistent wind at its rated speed to achieve 1000w. This must not be interpreted as a sporadic wind gust at the rated speed, it quite literally means a wind turbine not turning away from the main stream of wind (turbulence) and that main stream of wind persistently flows for 1 hour at the rated wind speed. This happens relatively infrequently even on the best wind sites and if it does, it’s for a couple of hours and certainly not for 24 hours. To put it in a more natural perspective. If you are driving down the road at 32kms (20mph) and you put your hand out the window, the wind resistance you feel on your hand would need to remain like that for 1 hour just to achieve its rating of 1000watts.

Again, wind turbine manufacturers are aware of this and for this reason they focus on the start up wind speed which can vary between generator types, makes and sizes but is generally accepted at around 2m/s (7.2kmh/4.5mph). Below you will see a graph. This graph is common with wind turbine spec sheets as it reflects the power generation at lower wind speeds. As you can see the power generation stays relatively low at low wind speeds and only as it nears its rated speed does it take a steep climb.

Wind Turbine Power Curve Graph

What does this mean? It means at lower wind speeds you are generating power but not much power relative to the rating of the wind turbine. It means that when you are standing on your patio and feeling a stiff breeze on your face that that breeze may not actually be sufficient both in terms of wind speed and in terms of clean wind.

Naturally frequency of wind is also important. If you do feel a breeze on your face while standing on your patio how often does that happen? Does it happen every day? Every month? Is it seasonal? If the wind does blow every day, how long does it go for and at what speed? All of this information is what you should be collecting to start building up your decision to buy in a wind turbine. Remember that merely because you notice the wind does not necessarily mean it has a frequency that will make it a viable investment both in terms of cash and in terms of energy.

Big turbines and protection

Many clients staying in rural or open suburbs often approach us to buy in 2kW or greater wind turbines. I tell them no. Why? Because in suburban type areas even with big yards wind turbines can be scary. Really scary.

A small 500watt HM class turbine has a swept area (spinning rotor diameter) of 2.5meters/8 feet. This swept area increases as the wattage increases. By the time you are at 2kW your swept (depending on make) is at 5meters/16 feet. This is all fine and well when the wind is low or average but when the first storm front strikes with gusting wind speeds nearing 80-120kmh/49-74mph a turbine standing at 9-12m/30-40feet (near the top of your house) with blades spinning so fast you can’t see them takes on a wholly new meaning, if not to you, to your neighbours. Your mind will drift back to every bolt you tighten, every blade you fixed and the cable you ratcheted tight. This is even harder for those people who never installed it themselves.

Ironically wind turbines are designed to accept this kind of punishment. They are tested up to 180kmh/111mph. They will really be okay in pretty much anything outside of freak storms that would take your roof off anyway. Most turbines have built in protection mechanisms that turn them out of the wind in extreme weather, they stop generating power or choke back power and either lift vertically or turn horizontally. Still doesn’t make it a pretty sight for you the homeowner.

Installation procedure and maintenance

Installing a wind turbine is no simple task and requires planning. When you get your turbine its not merely a matter of putting it on the pole and lifting it. You need to remember that the turbine will be up there for quite some time and some tricks can really make it a great success or huge irritation. Take the time to sight it properly. Look at the area carefully, watch it for a few weeks, see where the wind is coming from and how its moving. Clear if need be.

A guy wire turbine requires a super powerful centre that must be perfectly level. This is the one important part of the mast installation. A level centre with a good foundation and super strong concrete/ guy wires. Always error on the side of caution when sinking your base plate hooks into wet concrete. Grease your turbine at all joints with generosity. This grease will protect exposed bolts and joins from the weather.

While on this subject we commonly have requests as to whether turbines can be mounted to a building/home. The answer is yes if your turbine is really small (think Air X) but no if you are looking at large turbines in terms of physical size or rated wattage. Just to be clear, you can mechanically affix it to your house but very few things will stop the vibration down the tower and into your walls.

So wind turbines don’t work?

1. Of course they work. All I am trying to do with this article is instill in potential buyers a sense of reality that will improve their experience. Here are the first things you should do:
2. Try and obtain as much wind information as possible. Check windfinder.com to see if someone has a meter station near you. If not, try the met office, if not the met office when driving about see if you can see any anemometers or wind vanes and ask them to share the data. The point is don’t merely rely on what you feel, try to obtain the data freely first. If you intend to buy a larger wind turbine, check online to see if you can cheaply buy a anemometer and wind vane. Place it roughly at the site that you intend to install in and meter the reading for a few months.
3. Pick an area that has as much clearance between it and any obstacles as possible yet is in the main flow of wind. If necessary clear the area but don’t go overboard, no wind turbine output can justify cutting down a tree that’s been growing for 30 years.
4. If you have neighbours discuss it with them.
5. Depending on the size of the turbine, check the ground for ease of installation. Plan it properly and step out the guy wire stay sites and main tower sites.

If you have done all of the above, send us or your local service provider all the information you can.

That’s it. I hope this article was not too long, ironically, I actually had to shorten it so as not to lose you. If you need any assistance, please don’t hesitate to drop me an email.

Post by Jason Sole (Mega Solar SA)

The post NB: Wind Turbine Information – A Buyers Guide appeared first on DIY Geek.

Below we’re outlining the best Arduino projects you can take on this year. We’ve picked projects for both beginner and veteran developers alike. Choose one that sparks your interest and dive into that right away.

15. Build a Tiny Weather Display System

This is one of the best Arduino projects for beginning Arduino enthusiasts. It requires you to build a small display that shows off the current weather, highs, and lows. You can also add tomorrow’s weather – if you’re looking for a broader domain. Program the system in a way so that it can display temperatures with differing units – both Celsius and Fahrenheit. Although it might seem a small project, it’ll aggravate your Arduino skills required for advanced projects later on.

• Select a small Arduino board; our experts recommend the Adafruit HUZZAH board.
• Get a small OLED graphic display to show off the weather.
• You can 3D print the box for a better visual experience.

14. Build a Motion-Triggered Night Lamp for Using Under Your Bed

Ever stumbled across redundant objects when getting up in the middle of the night? If so, then this is gonna be one of the best Arduino projects for your practical life. The project requires you to build a LED lighting system that will be controlled by an Arduino board.

It will detect your motion in the night and trigger the lights as soon as you get up from the bed. Sounds irresistible, doesn’t it? Take on this amazing Arduino project that will leave your friends amazed by your electronics skill.

Highlights of the project

• Hook up the LED lights beneath your bed in a nice serial.
• Trigger the lights by utilizing the motion sensors of an Arduino board.
• Program the system in a way that it does not light up while you’re peacefully sleeping or are in a different room.

13. Build a System for Muting Any Phrase You Want on TV

This is one of the best Arduino projects that’s fun to build and rewarding in nature. If you’re as bored as me hearing about the Kardashians or Mr. Trump always when you turn on the TV, we suggest you take on this compelling project for your next Arduino adventure.

This project does what the heading suggests – mute specific phrases that you do not want to hear. Although it sounds quite challenging for beginners, believe us when we say – this project is very much doable by almost anyone.

Highlights of the project

• The system detects specific words or phrases on the TV by monitoring the closed captioning.
• It requires the Video Experimenter Shield that can be bought pre-soldered on an Arduino board.
• It unmutes the TV after an interval of your choice as long as the selected catchphrase isn’t being mentioned again.

12. Build an Ambilight Sensor for Your LCD Display

Do you want a killer movie watching system built with your already existing LCD display? This is one of the best Arduino projects that deal exclusively with this field. It requires you to build an Ambilight sensor that will bleed backlight behind your computer display in an aim to make your movie or video watching sessions a lot more immersive than normal. This is a very fun yet promising project that can reward you with a great visual experience upon successful completion.

Highlights of the project

• The system bleeds backlight behind the monitor that gives users an illusion of a much bigger and immersive display.
• The sensor should detect the accurate color of the background image successfully and change the backlight according to that.

11. Build a Fingerprint Scanner to Your Garage Door Opener

Another great real-life project, in this project you will build a fingerprint scanner that will let you inside your garage after confirming your fingerprint first. This is one of the best Arduino projects where you tackle a practical problem with your own DIY Arduino solution. Although the project can seem a bit complex at first glance, we believe you can easily implement it if you’ve got a strong determination.

Highlights of the project

• Install a small board beside your garage door.
• You can always 3D print the case if looking for a visually compelling scanner.
• Follow the Arduino project hub for instructions on how to implement the coding part of this project.

10. Build a Robotic Arm

One of the best Arduino projects for new robotic enthusiasts; this project requires you build a robotic arm with advanced maneuverability capabilities. What we like the most about this project is that it forces new Arduino learners like you to learn a lot of different things.

From basics of construction to breadboarding, you’ll be introduced with a lot of topics required in most advanced real-life Arduino projects. And what’s more rewarding than showcasing your newly built robotic arm to friends and families?

• Utilize the meArm robot arm project to get yourself started.
• You can 3D print the different components of the arm, or even side with wooden pieces.
• Use an Arduino IDE for coding the underlying logic associated with your robotic arm.

9. Build a Fully Functional Computer Control Panel

Ever wished to build a fully functional control panel for your computer just like you’ve watched on those sci-fi films? If so then this might turn out to be one of the best Arduino projects for you. Although compelling enough at first look, the project is not all that tough. The Arduino board will act as the brain of the project whereas a select set of USB controllers will allow you to control the different aspects of your computer – from controlling the system sound to setting screen preferences.

Highlights of the project

• The control panel lets you launch apps, control volume, change screen preferences, and many more.
• Set up a select number of monochrome switches and LEDs for creating the mesmerizing visual experience.
• Curate the system in a more personalized way, based on how you want it to function rather than implementing someone else’s perception.

8. Build a Robot Car

Nothing beats the combination of DC motors and Arduino when it comes to building awe-inspiring electronics projects. So, one of the best Arduino projects that you can take on this year is building a robot car from scratch.

You can only use household materials or may opt with 3D printing your car’s components if aiming for a visually stunning robot. This project is not only fascinating in visual but also rewards you with a deep understanding of advanced motor control.

Highlights of the project

• The robotic car will be powered with a Li-ion battery and a set of DC motor. We recommend you to stick with the 12V variants.
• Utilize an analog joystick and the L298N driver for controlling the car.
• If looking for a much wider scope, you can even utilize a wireless controller to control your robotic car.

7. Build a Clone of the Popular Flappy Bird Game

This can be one of the best Arduino projects for you if you’re into gaming and that sort of stuff. The game is a clone of the popular flappy bird game for smartphones where you as a gamer control the bird by touching on the capacitive touchscreen and try to avoid the pillars present in front of the bird’s way.

You’ll learn many different things while building this project that includes both Arduino fundamentals and game theory. The coding aspect is a bit tricky, but with enough patience, we’re sure you’ll get hold of it.

Highlights of the project

• You need a 3.2 inches TFT touchscreen to feature the visual.
• Utilize both a TFT Mega shield adapter and an Arduino Mega board for this game.
• Make use of the UTFT and URTouch libraries for the coding part of this project.
• You can use the EEPROM library for storing the highest score.

6. Build a Personalized Alarm System

One of the best Arduino projects to deal with security; this project is fun to build yet rewarding in nature. It requires you to build an ultrasonic alarm system using an Arduino board. This is a great starting point for all you security enthusiasts. The alarm system will be activated whenever a person or object appears in front of the sensor. You can then deactivate the alarm by typing in a predefined password of your choice.

Highlights of the project

• The project components include an ultrasonic sensor, an LCD display, a 4×4 keypad, and a buzzer.
• The sensor detects any forthcoming objects and activates the alarm.
• The user enters a password for deactivating the system.

5. Build a Quadruped Using Arduino

This is a great Arduino project for intermediate developers with interest in the field of robotics. This biologically inspired Quadruped is similar in outlook to a spider and requires you to carefully construct the outer materials.

Each of the four legs will have three joints, and every joint will require a servo motor. This is one of the best Arduino projects for aspiring robotics enthusiasts as it forces you to teach yourself the fundamentals required to implement automated robots.

Highlights of the project

• The project requires 12 servo motors and a detailed understanding of the servo motor working principles.
• You need a 12 pin Arduino board to connect the 12 servo motors to them.
• You can spice up the project by implementing a wireless controller to control the Quadruped.

4. Build a Kaleidoscope Infinity Mirror

One of the best Arduino projects that help you master the technology; this project requires you to build a Kaleidoscope Infinity Mirror using the Arduino board. This mirror will create a mind-blowing infinity mirror illusion to the viewer’s eyes.

As you change the orientation of the mirror, you control this mirror – in turn giving a Kaleidoscopic effect. The colors will also vary based on the orientation. You can spice up the project further by introducing a vividly psychedelic effect into the mirror.

Highlights of the project

• You will require a set of LED lights along with an Arduino 101 board. The Sparkfun version is recommended, but you can also side with Adafruit’s NeoPixels.
• You can use a heat shrink tubing if feeling a bit fancy.
• The mirror will be powered by using a set of AA batteries.

3. Build an Autonomous “Follow Me” Cooler

A fun yet rewarding project to build for seasoned developers; this is one of the best Arduino projects that come handy in real-life scenarios. In this project, you will build an autonomous cooler that will follow you wherever you go. Sounds fun, right?

You can find an unused cooler from pawn shops or even buy a low-end version yourself. Create a wooden base which will include the wheels for transporting the cooler. This project will make sure your beers stay cool and right behind wherever you go!

Highlights of the project

• Use a medium density fiberboard (MDF) for the base panel.
• The cooler needs to connect with your smartphone via either Bluetooth or GPS to navigate behind you.
• The L298n Motor Driver is recommended for controlling the swivel motors.

2. Build a Gesture Control with Arduino

One of the best Arduino projects regarding satisfaction; this is something even seasoned developers will sweat to build. The project requires you control an Arduino project by gesturing your hand. Let’s imagine you’re controlling the robot car project you built earlier by merely moving your hands rather than using an external controller. Sounds eclectic, right? You need tools such as an accelerometer, a gyroscope and a magnetometer to effectively build such a project.

Highlights of the project

• Utilize the GY-80 module to implement and control the different sensors.
• We recommend you use the NRF24L01 transceiver module for effective wireless communication.
• Utilize the MEMS module for controlling the overall project.

1. Build a Smoke Detection System Using the MQ-2 Gas Sensor

This will definitely sit on top of the best Arduino projects you can take on this year. The project is not only fancy regarding presentation but also solves a real-life problem in an exceptionally well laid out manner. Your project will consist of a system that detects smoke and other inflammatory gases by utilizing the MQ-2 gas sensor.

It will feature a buzzer that gets turned on whenever a certain level of smoke is detected by the system. An LED indicator will also be featured that will turn red when the system senses such gases and remain green when the environment is safe.

Highlights of the project

• The MQ-2 gas sensor will detect the presence of any potential gases.
• The analog input of the sensor will activate the buzzer after reaching a prespecified level of gas presence.
• The buzzer will be turned on, and the LED will signal a red light in case of any detection.
• Spice up the project, so it sends an SMS to your personal number whenever it detects any gas.

Ending Thoughts

We have reached the end of today’s post featuring the best Arduino projects for 2019. Thanks for staying with us on such a long journey. We’ve curated this list in a way so that both newcomers and seasoned Arduino experts can find some form of inspiration and take on a specific project from the list. We encourage you to modify the projects as you build them because we believe that’s the only way you learn electronics. Thanks again and hope you will stay with us for future posts on this amazing electronic board.

The post Top 15 Best Arduino Projects That You Can Build Right Now appeared first on DIY Geek.

You can buy cold brew coffee at a coffee shop. But, if it happens to be from a certain Seattle-based java-serving monolith named after a Melville character, or an pink and orange East Coast chain known for selling fried rings of dough for, uh, “placing” into your coffee, then what you’re actually getting is cold coffee…that is, hot coffee that’s been iced down.

Cold brew is an entirely different beast altogether. And with the weather warming up, it’s time to cool our coffee down. Or, more accurately, never heat it up to begin with.  If you’re not familiar, here are a few nerdy facts about it:

• Cold-brew is – as the name says it – coffee that’s made with cold water. Yep, no boiling, no heating, nada. Just water and quality beans.
• It tastes different than your regular cup of coffee; it’s less acidic, less bitter, and contains less caffeine, so it’s waaay more enjoyable and easy on your gut.
• It’s super easy to make and perfect for summer and outdoor events….hello, camping trips!

Totally hooked, right? Ok then, let’s get to it..

How To Make The Best Cold Brew Coffee

Ingredients and tools needed:

• 1 1/2 cups freshly fine ground coffee. Try a dark roast if you’re going for richness. Always use freshly ground coffee beans!
• 5 cups of water
• Large French press or big mason jar and fine mesh-sieve/cheesecloth.
• Ice (optional) – TIP: If you’re going to use ice, make some coffee ice cubes to avoid diluting the brew.

• Pour water in the French press and add ground coffee. Stir stir stir.
• Cover with french press lid (but don’t plunge it!) or cover with a small plate.
• Let is sit at room temperature for at least 10 hours, but up to 16. (Okay…1 day max). Make it after dinner, go to bed, and it’ll be ready the next morning.
• Once it’s ready, carefully plunge the press, or strain through a sieve and cheesecloth. Pour liquid in a clean container. This liquid will be your cold-brew concentrate.
• Use a 1:1 ratio of cold-brew concentrate and water, or modify the ratio depending on how strong you like your coffee.
• Refrigerate or add ice cubes, add sweetener if needed (recommended: honey or agave syrup) and serve. Done!

Easy peasy, right? Now, let’s try a few variations, ’cause you know, variety is the spice of life…and coffee.

Add milk and a couple drops of vanilla, and a couple drops of almond extract.
Like one of those fancy barista flavoured lattes, but at a 1/3 of the price! And made at home. How modern and foodie is that?

Boil the water with cinnamon, cardamon, and 1 star anise.
Boil the water that you’re going to use for the brew with the ingredients mentioned above (easy on the star anise! Use the smallest one you can find). Let it cool down, and then use it to make the concentrate. The result: a chai-like brew that’s Taj Mahal tasty (er..you get the idea).

Add a bit of sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.
This combo is also called Thai Cold Coffee, and even though it has extra sugar added, it’s totally worth it. Best summer treat!

Take the plunge and make you’re own brew! Serve it at your next shinding or enjoy it while kicking back in your backyard. Yep, you’re welcome.

The post ManMade Guide: How To Make the Best Cold Brew Coffee at Home appeared first on DIY Geek.